Simple slouchy beanie hat pattern

This pattern will make a slouchy beanie hat, of the kind so popular with younger people at the moment. It’s also useful for putting lots of hair up and out of the way.

You can make this hat any size you like – if you want it larger, add more chains at the start. If you want it smaller, chain less. You basically work according to the size of the head the hat is destined for.

So, to start:

Chain 20. Then hold up your work with one end at the crown of your head and pull it straight. See where it ends on your forehead. If you need to, add a few more chains until it reaches the middle of your forehead.

*Next, turn your work and double crochet FOUR times (US sc). Find something to mark this fourth stitch – a stitch marker, paper clip, whatever you normally use. This end of your work wil be the crown and will shape the hat.

Then half treble (US hdc) all the way along the rest of the chains. If you want to, you could treble (US dc) instead of half treble.

When you reach the end, turn your work and chain two. Half treble back again until you reach your stitch marker. Take it out so that you can crochet four double crochet . When you reach the end of the row, turn your work, chain one, then crochet four double crochet again and reinsert your stitch marker.**

Repeat from * to ** over and over again until you can wrap your work around your head so that it fits you comfortably, bearing in mind that wool is stretchy. Stop crocheting at the end of your work opposite from the stitch marker but do not fasten off. Just move right onto the next stage of the pattern.

Next, place the two longest ends of your work together. Crochet them together from one end to the other with your chosen stitch, until you reach your stitch marker. Remove the marker and crochet these last four stitches with double crochet. Again, do not fasten off here. Move onto the next stage of the pattern.

Cut your wool off from the ball aka skein, but leave a nice long tail. Then we need to feed this tail through all the stitches around this opening (which, remember, is the crown of your hat). You can either use your fingers to carefully do this or use an embroidery needle (the needles that aren’t actually sharp and pointy but are the same width all the way along). Basically, you’re weaving your wool around this opening inside the stitches so that, when you’ve gone all the way around, you can pull the opening closed like a drawstring.

All that’s left after that is to fasten off and weave in the end. That’s it!

If you like, you can crochet a further row or two around the brim of the hat. This will tighten it up a bit and neaten it, if, like me, you weren’t super tidy on your first attempt.

Now, my instructions make sense to me, but please do ask if I haven’t been clear! :>>>

Little coin purse – leftover yarn project


This sweet little purse shouldn’t take more than an hour. Image

I made this cute little purse from wool scraps. I had a metre or two left, not enough to make anything significant but too much to throw away (I can’t bear chucking out wool!). To give you a sense of scale that’s a tapestry needle at the top of the picture – you know, the needle you use to sew in all your ends.

Here’s how to make it:

I used fat wool with a 6mm hook. Adapt as you please :>

Start with a magic ring. 6 dc (sc in US terms) into ring.

Row 1: dc (sc) all the way round into each stitch.

Row 2: 2 dc (sc) all the way round into each stitch.

Row 3: repeat row 1.

Row 4: repeat row 2.

Row 5: repeat row 1.

Row 6: repeat row 2.

If you like, you can stop at this point, or crochet a few more rows. To judge how big the purse will be, just fold your work in half. If you would like the top edge to be wider, repeat row 2. If you want it to be narrower, repeat row 1.

Once you are happy with the size, fold your work in half and start crocheting the edges together – but ONLY a third of the way across. Once you have crocheted a third, switch to slip stitching ONE edge only. If you crochet all the way across, you’ll have a purse with no opening! Slip stitch across another third, then switch back to crocheting the two edges together.

I sewed in a button, as you can see, but you could make a tie, leave it open, whatever you like. Your stitches will be loose enough so that you don’t have to make a button hole.

Tie off and sew in all ends.

Spider web cuffs

A nice, simple project to crochet some spooky spider’s web cuffs/sleeves that I think are too nice to keep just for Hallowe’en. All you need to know is how to chain and slip stitch.

These spooky babies are probably the easiest things you’ll ever make! All you need to know is how to slip stitch and chain!

You’ll need white wool, a 4 mm hook and a tapestry needle to sew in your ends.

Chain 43
Then join the two ends with a slip stitch. As the gloves are supposed to resemble spiders’ webs, it doesn’t matter too much if your yarn twists over.
Chain 46.


Now go right back to the beginning of the chain 46 you have just crocheted.
Find the third chain from its start and slip stitch into it to create your second loop.
Chain 46 and slip stitch into the third chain seven more times. This is the arm section. Your work should start looking like this as you go.
Now we’re going to make the loops a bit closer together for the hand sections of the arm warmers: chain 44 (not 46) and slip stitch into the first chain (not the third). Repeat this step four more times. The picture shows how they look spaced closer together. Then break your yarn and fasten off.

Next, reunite your hook with a new piece of yarn. If you look at the picture above, you will see that I’ve slipstitched into the yarn on the opposite side to the side we’ve been working on up to now. This is how we will join the other side of the loops together, otherwise we’ll just have all those loops joined on one side and flapping around on the other!

Slip stitch into the very first loop you crocheted directly opposite from the side already joined.

Chain 3. Slip stitch into the same point on the next loop. Repeat until you reach the first of the loops on the hand section. Follow the same process to join the loops together, but only crochet 1 chain in between loops.You should end up with this.

Now, I stopped at this point because I was happy with how it looked but if you want, you could add more chains between the loops to make a more spiderwebby-effect. To do this, find the point halfway between the chains joining the loops and follow the same process – attach your yarn with a slip stitch, chain 3, slip stitch into the next loop, continue to the hand section, chain 1 etc.