2014/75 – really cute top idea – great for tops that are too short!

So this one is a bit of a weird one.

I found a picture tutorial for it on pinterest and it links to a blog but the post is gone. So you won’t be able to see the full explanation, but I still recommend you go explore the awesome blog it came from!

Pin Them All has created a quick tutorial for turning granny squares into a really cute top decoration. I guess you could use any granny square pattern you like as long as you fit the dimensions of the shirt you’re adding them to.

And with winter on its’ way, what better way to convert summer tops into winter ones?

The key (middle right) translates the stitches into US patterns so click here for our translation.

Check out the blog it came from here:

http://pinthemall.net/pin/52849e050991b/

2014/36 Snowman crochet slippers, Olaf-inspired, free pattern (a proper one!)

Given the success of the lazy blog post we wrote about using our Minion-inspired slippers pattern to make Olaf-inspired slippers, we wrote up the pattern properly! We still don’t have a photo of a finished item, but if you make them …

It’s a Ravelry download too: download now.

You will need:

4mm hook

White yarn

Black yarn

Orange yarn

Hook: 4mm.

Tapestry needle.

Stitches (UK terms): half treble (htr), double crochet (dc), treble crochet (tr).

THE TOE

This section determines the shoe size of the slipper. The instructions I’ve given here should cover all average adult shoe sizes. If you want your slippers to be smaller, miss out Round 4. If you want them to be larger, add “Round 4a” and crochet “1 htr, 1 htr, 1 htr, then 2 htr all the way round”. Alternatively, play around with different hook sizes.

We start with orange yarn and a circle. Use your preferred method: either chain 4 and slip stitch into the first chain to create a loop, or use a magic ring and chain 1 to secure. It’s important to keep track of the first stitch of each round with your stitch marker. I don’t slip stitch to join rings – this way, you don’t get a visible join. Go straight from the last htr of round 1 to the first htr of round 2.

Round 1: 10 htr into the ring.

Round 2: 2 htr into each htr from round 1.

Round 3: 1 htr then 2 htr into the next stitch. Continue all the way round. You should finish on a 2 htr in the last stitch.

Switch to white yarn for the rest of the slipper.

Round 4: 1 htr, 1 htr then 2 htr into the next stitch. Continue all the way round. You should finish on a 2 htr in the last stitch.

 

The Foot

This section determines the length of the slipper. Adjust the number of rows up or down to match the size of the foot you are crocheting for. You’ll want to keep working until the length of the slipper is slightly shorter than the foot.

Round 5: 1 htr in each stitch all the way round.

Round 6 -16  , repeat round 5.

Rounds 17 – 23: 1 htr in each stitch all the way round.

We are now going to create an opening for the foot.  We won’t be crocheting all the way around any more. Your work will create a rectangle shape.

Round 24: Chain 1. Crochet 28 htr back the way you came, ie back over the previous round.

Rounds 25 – 36: Repeat round 24.

 

The Heel

After row 36, fold the straight end in half and double crochet the two sides together. Turn inside out. Sew in any loose ends with a tapestry needle.
The Eyes

White circles.

Make a magic loop again (or a ring using whatever your preferred method is) using white wool.
Round 1: 10 tr into ring. Slip stitch to join.
Round 2: Chain 2. 1 tr into same stitch. 2 tr into each remaining stitch from previous round. Slip stitch into top of chain 2 to join.
Round 3: Chain 2. 1 tr into same stitch. *1 tr into next stitch. 2 tr into each remaining stitch from previous round.* Repeat from * to * all the way round. Slip stitch into top of chain 2 to join.
Round 4: Chain 2. 1 tr into same stitch. *1 tr into next stitch. 1 tr into next stitch. 2 tr into each remaining stitch from previous round.* Repeat from * to * all the way round. Slip stitch into top of chain 2 to join.
Fasten off and weave in ends.

I also double crocheted along the top of the white circles, as below in the hat photo, to give his eyes some definition.

Black circles
Using black yarn, start with a magic ring or chain 4 and join with a slip stitch – whichever method you prefer.
Round 1: 10 tr into ring. Slip stitch to join.
Fasten off and weave in ends.

Sew or glue the black circles to the white circles: you can sew them to the centre of the white circles if you like or you can place them somewhere else if you prefer. See my Olaf hat photo for a suggestion. Sew the eyes to the slippers in a similar position to those in the photo of the Minion-inspired slippers.

The eyebrows – make 2
Using black yarn, chain 17.
Tr into the 2nd stitch from the hook and then the next 4 stitches.
Htr into the next 5 stitches.
Dc into the next 5 stitches.

Fasten off. Sew in ends. Sew onto slippers as shown in picture of hat.

The hair.
Cut 2 pieces of black yarn, each about 3 inches long (8 cm). Thread them through the top centre of the slippers above the eyes and knot them on the inside of the slippers to secure.

All done!

 

 

2014/30 Free pattern – Snowman hat inspired by Olaf from Frozen

VISIT OUR COMPETITIONS PAGE TO WIN A CHOCOLATE PIZZA! (opens in new window)

This pattern is also available as a Ravelry download – download now.

19.04.14 Updated to add instructions to add tooth.

You will need:

5.5 mm hook
White yarn
Black yarn
Orange yarn

Stitches:
Chains
Double crochet – dc (US sc)
Half treble crochet – htr (US hdc)
Treble – tr (US dc)
Treble 2 together – tr2tog (US dc2tog): yarn over, insert hook into stitch and pull up a loop. Yarn over and insert hook into next stitch, pull up a loop. Yarn over, pull off 2 loops. Yarn over, pull off all remaining loops.

The hat

Start with a magic ring and white yarn. Alternatively, chain 4 and join with a slip stitch. Please note that there is no join with a slip stitch while making the hat. You will crochet the first stitch of the next row into the last stitch of the previous row. You may need to use a stitch marker to keep track of the number of rows. To make your hat larger or smaller, use a larger or smaller crochet hook.

Round 1: 10 htr into ring. If using the magic ring method, pull ring closed and tie a small double knot after stitch 10 to secure and stop ring stretching when worn (20 stitches).

Round 2: 2 htr into each stitch from the previous round (20 st).

Round 3: *1 htr into first stitch, 2 htr into next.* Continue from * to * all the way around. You
should end round on a 2 htr (30 st).

Round 4: 1 htr, 1 htr, 2 htr into next. Continue from * to * all the way around. You should end round on a 2 htr (40 st).

Round 5: 1 htr, 1 htr, 1 htr, 2 into next. Continue from * to * all the way around. You should end round on a 2 htr (50 st).

Round 6: 1 htr, 1 htr, 1 htr, 1 htr, 2 into next. Continue from * to * all the way around. You should end round on a 2 htr (60 st).

Round 7: 1 htr, 1 htr, 1 htr, 1 htr, 1 htr, 2 into next. Continue from * to * all the way around. You should end round on a 2 htr (70 st).

Rounds 8 – 26: 1 htr into each stitch (70 st).

Round 27: 1 dc into each stitch (70 st). Fasten off and sew in ends. Alternatively, as this is the hat brim, you could crochet a round of tr instead, if you would prefer a wider brim.

The eyes – make 2

White circles
Using white yarn, start with a magic ring or chain 4 and join with a slip stitch – whichever method you prefer.
Round 1: 10 tr into ring. Slip stitch to join.
Round 2: Chain 2. 1 tr into same stitch. 2 tr into each remaining stitch from previous round. Slip stitch into top of chain 2 to join.
Round 3: Chain 2. 1 tr into same stitch. *1 tr into next stitch. 2 tr into each remaining stitch from previous round.* Repeat from * to * all the way round. Slip stitch into top of chain 2 to join.
Round 4: Chain 2. 1 tr into same stitch. *1 tr into next stitch. 1 tr into next stitch. 2 tr into each remaining stitch from previous round.* Repeat from * to * all the way round. Slip stitch into top of chain 2 to join.
Fasten off and weave in ends.

Black circles
Using black yarn, start with a magic ring or chain 4 and join with a slip stitch – whichever method you prefer.
Round 1: 10 tr into ring. Slip stitch to join.
Fasten off and weave in ends.

Sew or glue the black circles onto the white circles as shown in the photograph. Place them wherever you like. Sew the eyes to the hat as shown in the picture. I placed mine three rows above the brim of the hat.

The eyebrows – make 2
Using black yarn, chain 17.
Tr into the 2nd stitch from the hook and then the next 4 stitches.
Htr into the next 5 stitches.
Dc into the next 5 stitches.

Fasten off. Sew in ends. Sew onto hat as shown in picture.

The hair.
Cut 2 pieces of black yarn, each about 3 inches long (8 cm). Thread them through the top centre of the hat and knot them on the inside of the hat to secure.

The nose
Using orange yarn, chain 12.
Row 1: 1 tr into 2nd stitch from hook and all remaining stitches. Chain 2. Turn.
Row 2: Crochet tr2tog. Tr into each remaining stitch, except for last 2: tr2tog into last 2. Chain 2. Turn.
Repeat row 2 until you have made a triangle – should be about 5 rows, including the last row with only 1 tr2tog.

Sew or glue nose to hat as shown in photo.

Additionally, you could add his tooth if you like.

Using white yarn, join to hat below nose with a chain.

Row 1: Crochet 1 tr into same stitch and then 9 more across.

Row 2: Chain 1 and crochet 1 tr into same stitch. 9 more tr across. Fasten off and sew in ends.

2014/20 Red, white and black slouchie hat, inspired by Pokeballs – onsite

I wrote this pattern at someone’s request. It’s a really basic slouchie beanie pattern that you can use to make slouchie beanies of any colour, not just nerdy Pokeball hats for your adult children who can’t let go of their childhood.

NB: there is a photo in this post but WordPress seem to be having image issues atm. I’ll leave it as is for now so if you can see the name of the image, sorry about that! IF you can see the image, fab!

6mm hook

Tapestry needle

Red yarn

White yarn

Black yarn

UK terms used throughout, so a DC = US SC and a TR = US DC.

This pattern used front post triple crochets BUT you can crochet ordinary triple crochets if you prefer.

Front post triple crochet: click here for a video tutorial from bobwilson aka aussiecrochetchick.

Here’s the url if the link doesn’t work: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Djh1zxnPUPg

Start by chaining 66 with white yarn (or enough chains to go around the head). Join with a slip stitch, taking care not to twist yarn.

Row 1: Chain 1. Crochet a double crochet into the next stitch and then all the way around. This is the brim of the hat.

Row 2: Chain 1. Crochet a front post triple crochet into the next stitch and then all the way around.

Rows 3 – 14: Repeat row 2.

Rows 15 – 18: Change to black yarn and repeat row 2.

Rows 19 – 30: Change to red yarn and repeat row 2.

After you have completed row 30, leave a long tail and cut yarn. Use a tapestry needle to weave yarn all the way around the edge of the hat and then pull yarn like a drawstring to close hat. Sew in ends. Tie knots to ensure secure closure if needed.

Next, using your white yarn, create a magic ring.

Round 1: ten triple crochet into ring. Pull ring shut securely.

Round 2: Chain 1. 2 triple crochet into each stitch from previous round.

Round 3: Switch to black yarn. Chain 1. *1 tr into first stitch, 2 into next*. Repeat from * to * all the way round.

Round 4: Chain 1. *1 tr into first stitch. 1 tr into next stitch. 2 into next*. Repeat from * to * all the way round.

Round 5: Chain 1. *1 tr into first stitch. 1 tr into next stitch. 1 tr into next. 2 into next*. Repeat from * to * all the way round.

Fasten off and sew onto hat in correct position. And you’re done!

Hat inspired by Minions: new free tutorial from ukcrochetpatterns

Pattern to crochet a Minion hat

 

This pattern will show you how to crochet a Minion hat with ONE OR TWO EYES to fit older children, teens and adults, with instructions for bigger and littler heads.

 You’ll need:

 Yellow yarn

Blue yarn

Black yarn

White yarn

Grey or silver yarn

Size 5mm hook (US 8 / H) (use a size 6mm hook for bigger heads, size 4 for smaller)

Tapestry needle

Stitch Markers to mark the first stitch in each round

Terms are UK throughout with US translations below:

Stitches used:

Double crochet (dc) (US single crochet/sc).

Half treble (htr) (US half double/hdc).

Treble (tr) (US double/dc).

Chain.

Abbreviation: st = stitches

To start:

Use a magic ring to make a circle

Or

Chain 4 and slip stitch into the 4^th chain from the hook to make a circle.

Round 1: ten htr into the ring. Tighten ring if necessary (10 st).

Round 2: 2 htr into each stitch from the previous round (20 st).

Round 3: *1 htr into first stitch, 2 htr into next.* Continue from * to * all the way around. You should end round on a 2 htr (30 st).

Round 4: 1 htr, 1 htr, 2 htr into next. Continue from * to * all the way around. You should end round on a 2 htr (40 st).

Round 5: 1 htr, 1 htr, 1 htr, 2 into next. Continue from * to * all the way around. You should end round on a 2 htr (50 st).

Round 6: 1 htr, 1 htr, 1 htr, 1 htr, 2 into next. Continue from * to * all the way around. You should end round on a 2 htr (60 st).

Round 7: 1 htr, 1 htr, 1 htr, 1 htr, 1 htr, 2 into next. Continue from * to * all the way around. You should end round on a 2 htr (70 st).

Rounds 8 – 17: 1 htr into each stitch (70 st).

Change colour to black.

Rounds 18 – 20: 1 htr into each stitch. (70 st)

Change back to yellow.

Rounds 21 – 26: 1 htr into each stitch (70 st).

Change to blue

Round 27 and 28: 1 dc in each stitch all the way around.

Fasten off and sew in ends.

The Eyes

For one big eye:

With black yarn, start with either a magic ring or chain 4 and slip stitch into 4^th chain from hook to create a ring.

Round 1: Crochet 10 tr into ring.

Round 2: Crochet 2 tr into each tr from previous round. Fasten off.

Round 3: With white, crochet 1 tr into first stitch, 2 tr into second. Repeat from * to * all the way around, as in the first rounds of the hat pattern above.

Round 4: Crochet *1 tr, 1 tr, then 2 tr*, then repeat from * to * all the way around, as above. Fasten off.

Round 5: With silver or grey, crochet *1 dc, 1 dc, 1 dc, 2 dc*, then repeat from * to * all the way around, as above.

Fasten off. Sew in ends. Sew eye onto hat.

For two eyes:

Make 2. With black yarn, start with either a magic ring or chain 4 and slip stitch into 4^th chain from hook to create a ring.

Round 1: Crochet 10 tr into ring.

Round 2: Crochet 2 tr into each tr from previous round. Fasten off.

Round 3: With silver or grey, crochet *1 dc, 2 dc* and then repeat from * to * all the way around, as above.

Fasten off. Sew in ends. Sew eyes onto hat.

You could also sew in a few strands of black at the crown of the hat for hair.

Please remember to cite this source when reproducing this pattern, otherwise make ’em and sell ’em as much as you want!

Slippers inspired by Minions – our free pattern and tutorial

VISIT OUR COMPETITIONS PAGE TO WIN A CHOCOLATE PIZZA! (opens in new window)

*Note: the photos were taken while one of us was recovering from surgery 😛

04.04.14 This pattern is now available as a free Ravelry download – download now.

We’ve seen other patterns around the Net for crochet slippers but they all seem to use treble crochets and join with slip stitches. Since this pattern, we’ve gone off the latter most definitely. Using half trebles the way she does leaves no sign of a join, and are quicker and easier. It’s an easily adaptable pattern. You obviously don’t have to make Minions, and you can use any colours you like.

So, here’s our version of a common pattern. Hopefully you’ll find it easy enough. Any questions, please use the Comments and we’ll get right back to you.

Hook: 4mm.

Tapestry needle.

Stitches: half treble (htr) and double crochet (dc).

THE TOE

This section determines the shoe size of the slipper. The instructions we’ve given here should cover all average adult shoe sizes. If you want your slippers to be smaller, miss out Round 4. If you want them to be larger, add “Round 4a” and crochet “1 htr, 1 htr, 1 htr, then 2 htr all the way round”. Alternatively, play around with different hook sizes.

We start with yellow yarn and a circle. Use your preferred method: either chain 4 and slip stitch into the first chain to create a loop, or use a magic ring and chain 1 to secure. It’s important to keep track of the first stitch of each round with your stitch marker.

Round 1: 10 htr into the ring.

Round 2: 2 htr into each htr from round 1.

I don’t slip stitch to join rings – this way, you don’t get a visible join. Go straight from the last htr of round 1 to the first htr of round 2.

Round 3: 1 htr then 2 htr into the next stitch. Continue all the way round. You should finish on a 2 htr in the last stitch.

Round 4: 1 htr, 1 htr then 2 htr into the next stitch. Continue all the way round. You should finish on a 2 htr in the last stitch.

The Foot

This section determines the length of the slipper. Adjust the number of rows up or down to match the size of the foot your are crocheting for. You’ll want to keep working until the length of the slipper is slightly shorter than the foot.

Round 5: 1 htr in each stitch all the way round.

Round 6 -16  , repeat round 5.

Change colour to blue.

Rounds 17 – 23: 1 htr in each stitch all the way round.

We are now going to create an opening for the foot.  We won’t be crocheting all the way around any more.

Round 24: Chain 1. Crochet 28 htr back the way you came, ie back over the previous round.

Rounds 25 – 36: Repeat round 24.

Your work will create a rectangle shape.

The Heel

After row 36, fold the straight end in half and double crochet the two sides together. Turn inside out. Sew in any loose ends with a tapestry needle.

The Eye.

Make a magic loop again (or a ring using whatever your preferred method is) using black wool.

Round A: Crochet 10 htr into the ring and pull ring closed.

Change to white yarn.

Round B: Crochet 2 htr into each stitch from previous round.

Round C: 1 htr then 2 htr all the way round.

Change to grey or silver yarn.

Round D: Using double crochet, crochet 1dc, 1dc, 2 dc, all the way round.

Fasten off and sew eye into the centre of the yellow section of the slipper.

All done!

If you like, you can crochet another row of dc or htr around the opening. If you’re making a non-Minion pair of slipper, you could use a different colour for contrast, or even a different edging stitch.

Make two (or more, depending on the number of feet your recipient has)!

Please feel free to reblog and link to this pattern, but please remember to source this blog if you reproduce it on your own site – ie, please don’t pass it off as your own! You will get found out! You can make and sell items made using this pattern as much as you like!

Crochet with denim

Following on from our post about crocheting with carrier bags, other items we’ve used in the past have been cut-up sheets (cut them into strips, tie them together – they make really good rugs), cassette and video tape (haven’t made anything useful yet though!), t-shirt yarn (you know how I love it) and, my personal favourite, denim.

I’ve been making denin rugs for years. Here are some I’ve kept for my home.

I crocheted this one doubled up with purple sparkly yarn. It was quite small and I couldn’t find anywhere to put it so I’ve unravelled it! It’s now waiting for me to finish this post so I can turn it into a much, much bigger rug with a beautiful new pattern based on spokes.

This is the oldest blue denim rug I have – at least 2 years old. It’s hexagonal and in a high traffic area. The cats love it and it bears up to the constant pounding of feet better than any other rug I’ve ever had.

 

This is the first denim rug I made. White in the centre set off my black surrounding it. I adore both sides of this rug – flat on one and touselled on the other. It’s definitely Mine and is on the floor in front of My Chair. Feels really good beneath bare feet.

The trick with denim is not to cut your strips too thick or they’ll be impossible to work with. Cut them no wider than an inch at most. If you can, use a metal hook larger than 5 mm. If you’re using a plastic hook, go bigger: I usually use plastic hooks of at least 8 mm. I snap them quite often all the same so metal is preferable – it’ll bend rather than break.

I started off by stealing everyone’s outgrown jeans that were a bit too battered to pass on. I cut horizontally beneath the crotch (sewists can turn that bit into a bag) and then chopped off the bottom inch of each leg. Then, I cut strips lengthwise from top to bottom. It’s much easier to work with long strips, plus you’ll end up with less knots. Tie the strips together end to end with a firm knot, and then roll up all your denim into a ball.

I still use this method but you can also buy large sheets of denim from sewing supplies shops pretty cheaply. It’s easier to cut into strips. Really, really long strips.

Denim doesn’t magically and infuriatingly knot itself like yarn. It’s also seriously sturdy so you can make not only rugs, but also bags and baskets.

All you need to do now is decide on a project and a pattern, and prepare your arms for a work out!

Tutorial: how to make and crochet with “Plarn” – plastic yarn

You’ve probably never heard of this but it’s becoming more and more popular!

Plarn!

It’s plastic yarn, made from carrier bags. Yep, the type you bring your shopping home in! If you have a wander around the Interwebs and Pinterest in particular, you’ll find people crocheting all sorts with it.

Today, we’re going to show you how to make and use your own. The process we’re going to follow can also make you t-shirt yarn (one of us would crochet with nothing else, if she could!).

First, find yourself a carrier bag (or a bin liner). Straighten it out really well.

Next, cut off the handles and the bottom like this.

Now make cuts about an inch wide from one end of the bag to the other – but not all the way across. Stop cutting about an inch from the other side, as in the picture.

At this point, I like to put my hand through all the loops we’ve made to make the next stage easier.

Finally, you’re going to cut along the lines marked in the picture. Cutting diagonally like this results in one big strand of plarn, which means no knotting up loads of little strands!

Ta-da!

All you need to do now is roll it up … and decide what to make with it!

We’ve seen lots of simple ideas for plarn, including washing up pads. We turned ours into a dispenser for yet more carrier bags! Shove ’em in the top and pull ’em out the bottom! We used an 8mm hook and crocheted nothing but dc.

Guest post: Eve tells us about Blocking!

The gorgeous and clever Eve has kindly written us a wonderful post about blocking, something we perhaps don’t do enough but could do with using more! Have a good read, tell us what you think and take a peek at her site as thank you for sharing her wisdom and taking the time to write this for us :>>

 

Eden’s Lace specialises in Irish Clones Lace and Crochet lace goods – particularly wedding & bridesmaid favours.

Each piece is designed and handmade in the sunny southeast of Ireland by Eve.

Visit EdensLace.com to shop, see behind-the-scenes pics and crochet tips.

Custom orders are a speciality, with experience in large pieces – i.e. veils, mantillas, christening gowns, wedding dress trains, etc.

How To Block Crochet

You did it! You cracked the pattern, the tension square turned out perfect and you’d just enough yarn to complete your crochet project. But, you’re not done yet. Taking the time to block crochet is a step not to be missed. It can feel tedious, but it is so worth the effort. Don’t let all your hard work go to waste!

You will need:

1) Blocking board

2) Pins

3) Ruler

4) Basin of Water

5) Drop (drop!) of unscented soap

6) Facecloth

Optional:

7) Iron

8) Spray-on starch

…and your finished crochet, of course!

If you don’t have a blocking board, try:

1. Folded beach towel.

2. Microfiber towel wrapped around a pillow.

2. Foam gardening kneeling mat.

3. Yoga mat, folded and secured with duct tape

4. As above, but try a foam camping mat

5. Playground rubber floor tiles

The three granny squares are in Aran/Worsted, Double Knitting/Sport and Lace/2 Ply. There were Worked on 6.50mm, 3.50mm and 0.60mm hooks, respectively.

Fill basin with cold water and add a tiny drop of unscented soap – the drop should be half the size of a pea, seriously, that small! Submerge crochet for a few minutes, but do not rub. Temperature and friction are the path to felting!

Remove from water and blot with facecloth. Crochet should be damp, but not dripping.

Beginning with the corners, pin in place. If your board doesn’t have any lines, just use a ruler for guidance, as I have. Keep stretching and pinning until you’re happy the yarn is held in good tension.

Pin at the apex – the central stitch – of clusters. Once the clusters are secured, this helps the rest of the spaces fall into place.

Once everything is pinned, wet facecloth and blot yarn. Again, damp, but not dripping!

Now’s the time to apply a light spray of starch or steam an iron 1inch/2.5cm above the crochet, if you want a firmer finish to your work.

Leave to block overnight. We had sunshine in Ireland, which is such a rare occurrence that I left mine on the windowsill. Don’t do this if you use coloured yarn!

See the difference blocking makes? The large square turned out far softer after blocking – surprising bonus! Bar an attack by a passing cat, the work stays flat and in great condition 😀

Simple slouchy beanie hat pattern

This pattern will make a slouchy beanie hat, of the kind so popular with younger people at the moment. It’s also useful for putting lots of hair up and out of the way.

You can make this hat any size you like – if you want it larger, add more chains at the start. If you want it smaller, chain less. You basically work according to the size of the head the hat is destined for.

So, to start:

Chain 20. Then hold up your work with one end at the crown of your head and pull it straight. See where it ends on your forehead. If you need to, add a few more chains until it reaches the middle of your forehead.

*Next, turn your work and double crochet FOUR times (US sc). Find something to mark this fourth stitch – a stitch marker, paper clip, whatever you normally use. This end of your work wil be the crown and will shape the hat.

Then half treble (US hdc) all the way along the rest of the chains. If you want to, you could treble (US dc) instead of half treble.

When you reach the end, turn your work and chain two. Half treble back again until you reach your stitch marker. Take it out so that you can crochet four double crochet . When you reach the end of the row, turn your work, chain one, then crochet four double crochet again and reinsert your stitch marker.**

Repeat from * to ** over and over again until you can wrap your work around your head so that it fits you comfortably, bearing in mind that wool is stretchy. Stop crocheting at the end of your work opposite from the stitch marker but do not fasten off. Just move right onto the next stage of the pattern.

Next, place the two longest ends of your work together. Crochet them together from one end to the other with your chosen stitch, until you reach your stitch marker. Remove the marker and crochet these last four stitches with double crochet. Again, do not fasten off here. Move onto the next stage of the pattern.

Cut your wool off from the ball aka skein, but leave a nice long tail. Then we need to feed this tail through all the stitches around this opening (which, remember, is the crown of your hat). You can either use your fingers to carefully do this or use an embroidery needle (the needles that aren’t actually sharp and pointy but are the same width all the way along). Basically, you’re weaving your wool around this opening inside the stitches so that, when you’ve gone all the way around, you can pull the opening closed like a drawstring.

All that’s left after that is to fasten off and weave in the end. That’s it!

If you like, you can crochet a further row or two around the brim of the hat. This will tighten it up a bit and neaten it, if, like me, you weren’t super tidy on your first attempt.

Now, my instructions make sense to me, but please do ask if I haven’t been clear! :>>>